It was exhausting to overlook the dwelling greenery sprouting from the runway items at Loewe’s spring 2023 present in Paris over the weekend, which explored the connection between nature and know-how (or the “fusion of the natural and the fabricated,” as artistic director Jonathan Anderson put it).
However really incorporating stay vegetation into clothes was no simple feat, and the results of months of collaboration with Spanish textile designer Paula Ulargui Escalona, who started growing her approach through the ultimate 12 months of her diploma in trend design and communication on the Istituto Europeo di Design (IED) in Madrid.
“We spent 4 months testing completely different clothes [and] equipment till we determined which of them we wished and which vegetation we wished,” Ulargui Escalona tells Vogue of working with Loewe, whose design crew approached her straight about her work. “It was really very difficult as I’m in Spain, so I needed to develop them right here after which ship them to Paris in 24 hours. There was all the time this rigidity [of seeing whether] they had been nonetheless going to be good after they arrived.”
Ultimately, the crew landed on chia vegetation and catswort for the gathering, with the seeds prepped upfront by Ulargui Escalona in Spain. They had been then transported to Paris, the place they had been grown in a polytunnel 20 days forward of the present—with the designer available to make sure the vegetation had the proper circumstances and all of the vitamins and minerals they wanted.
“You always should discover a approach to [help] the vegetation develop higher with out damaging the material,” she explains. “It’s a must to examine in the event that they want extra mild, in the event that they want extra water, in the event that they want a [certain] sort of nutrient. You’ll be able to examine the colours of the leaves to guess what it’s that they want—probably the most advanced half is to have the ability to see all that and react quick.”
Certainly, the choice to work with dwelling vegetation was considerably of a big gamble on Loewe’s half, regardless of the years Ulargui Escalona has spent perfecting her approach. “Just a few days in the past it was 40 levels [Celcius] in Paris and we had been all in a panic as we didn’t know if [the plants] had been going to be good,” the textiles designer continues. “It’s unimaginable they [took the] threat.”